“I was lucky enough to have worked and learned under master craftsmen, the best block printers and makers jaipur had to offer. now, the landscape has changed, the younger generations has a more commercial mindset and it has become difficult to produce fine and detailed blockprinted textiles...
the art of block printing
for me block printed cloth is one of the most artistic and beautiful fabric in the world.
block printing is an ancient craft and one of the oldest, most labor intensive, complex and time-consuming manual processes of textile manufacturing. which explains its high manufacturing costs. it is not easily sustainable today, because it requires highly skilled and experienced professionals, master craftsmen who are dedicated and passionate about their work, not easy to find these days.
my fabrics are printed by hand in big, airy printing halls with hand carved wooden blocks. the seasoned teak blocks are dipped into a dye pool, stamped onto the fabric and repeated until that color is complete for the pattern.
depending on the complexity and color diversity of the design, each color requires its own block and systematic, precise layering on five-meter-long printing tables.
between each change of color, it is essential that the cloth dries fully in order to prevent the pattern from smudging. after the printing is complete the cloth is dipped into a solution bath to set the dye then hung to dry.
according to the product, pre-washed and conditioned runs of cotton cloth in different counts and thicknesses are carefully and accurately stretched to ensure exact alignment. when pigments start to accumulate in the carving of the blocks, they must be re-carved and renewed to maintain the crispness of the design.
“I strive to create a permanence that stands, something capable of rising to each occasion and enabling a transformation to further evolution on this journey that is life”
designing a new collection
inspiration for my prints can come from any direction. an old tile in a dilapidated house, nature or part of a costume in a museum. my processes are instinctive, based on my experience of creating collections for over 25 years and a personal color palette that has developed over time.
the blocks are cut after my drawings and specification and i have decided on the color palette. once the dyes have been mixed, i look forward to a meeting with the master printer at the printing table for sampling. i then specify which cloth to use, usually working with a batiste cloth called mulmul, or a fine but slightly denser batiste cotton called 60 or cambric; cotton poplin, canvas - whichever i see fit for the intended product.
incorporating all of the blocks and colors i have decided on, i usually create what i can call a masterpiece. sampling takes at least a full day, and sample dyes cannot be used the following day but must instead be mixed anew.
once a designed fabric is printed, washed and ironed i use it in the creation of my full collection, taking sections and print sequences and deciding for which garment or furnishing textile i use which pattern. each product is then detailed in a technical drawing with all manufacturing and stitching details listed, down to the size of each button hole.
the amount of detail - from a sometimes complex layering of prints to the finest stitching details, contrasting piping/lining, reversibility and/or covering of seams with contrasting fabric - ensures that the final product breathes my specific signature!
“in my work as a textile and fashion designer, I am passionate about traditional methods and handwork, old stitching and printing techniques. I am intrigued by the patterns of traditional, folkloristic garments, whether from persia, provençe or austria. I extract the essence and combine their timeless appeal, correctness, elegance and practicality with my developed sense of style and taste. my fashion is made for women who want to feel feminine, individual and smartly dressed”
“I was lucky enough to have worked and learned under master craftsmen, the best block printers and makers jaipur had to offer. now, the landscape has changed, the younger generations have a commercial mindset…are not interested in fine detailing and the effort and time it entails…”